icon

Alexander McQueen a/w 2016 – Look 41

Fashion system is in flux and many are announcing it as ‘broken’ but what does this mean for design? Address contributor Jacob Rosengren considers the aesthetics of fashion during a time of transition …read more

icon

Eckhaus Latta s/s 2016 – Look 26

New York based design duo Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta are challenging traditional notions of design by privileging materiality over aesthetics. Address resident fashion critic Jacob Rosengren attempts to unpack the significance of this changing approach to thinking about garments …read more

icon

Proenza Schouler a/w 2015 – Look 43

Red carpet dresses are anything but innovative but occasionally, someone takes a risk and helps this tried and tested dressing-up formula move forward. Address contributor Jacob Rosengren returns with his series of essays exploring individual dresses from the catwalk by considering the impact of look 43 from Proenza Schouler a/w 2015 collection …read more

icon

Fashion show spaces

The relationship between fashion and architecture is in constant dialogue as both disciplines echo each other’s design vocabulary. Nowhere is this more present that at the biannual catwalk shows, where clothing is made to fit the space, or more often, vice versa. Jacob Rosengren considers three case studies from recent spring summer 2015 shows where fashion entered into conversation with the space in which it was presented. …read more

icon

Fashion hybrids

Cross-breed clothing, mash-up messages and portmanteau phases: fashion is currently keen on combinations whether physical, metaphorical and linguistic. Scholar and Address contributor Rachel Matthews considers the meaning of frankenstein fashions that affect not just world of style, but food, business and even dogs …read more

icon

Womenswear

Critics are objective, fashion editors subjective in their views when it comes to the fashion shows. Critics explain and contextualise what is worth taking a moment to appreciate, and what doesn’t have any value or worse, when designers completely fail. Fashion editors on the other hand treat the shows as elaborate shopping events, pick things they like. It’s that black and white, right? …read more

front image

Menswear

Initially, this piece was easy. Just choose from the latest menswear a/w 2014 shows, roughly five collections I would wear and five collections I wouldn’t, if I were a man. Then give reasons why I liked or didn’t like them. It wasn’t so simple. …read more

icon

Gucci feminism

A year ago, Chime for Change was born: a feminist organisation promoting health, education and justice for women and girls across the world, which was founded by Italian luxury fashion brand Gucci. Since then, it has helped raise awareness and money for a variety of causes, including taking part in the current world-wide focus on stopping a culture of rape in India. …read more

icon

Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent

As a fashion critic, I’m always trying to reflect on why I respond to certain fashions with enthusiasm and joy whereas others have the opposite affect on me. One might argue that all of this comes down to personal taste, I believe signs of time, cultural influences and politics of life that underpin fashion should be at the forefront of our minds when trying to make sense of what we see on the runways or in the shops …read more

icon

Fairytales and fashion criticism

This tale – as many within this journal – continues the quest to locate and identify constructive, critical and credible fashion criticism. Critical discussion of fashion in popular culture could be understood in two very different ways. One interpretation could be that of a discussion, which finds fault with fashion, the other as a discussion characterised by careful analysis of fashion. …read more

front option2

Waistlines

Depending on how much you like beer and pies, the waistline should be the narrowest part of your torso, officially positioned horizontally between the hips and ribs. Not many people know this because there are so many design lines calling themselves a waistline. This would be totally fine, except who knows how to wear any of them? …read more

Glamorous_icon

the word ‘Glamorous’

Nothing is glamorous these days. Dresses are not glamorous, women are not glamorous, men are not glamorous, movies are not glamorous, nothing is glamorous. In the age, where everything is exposed, discussed, documented, photographed, written or captured on film, the concealment that anything glamorous requires, is now a paradox. …read more