Eckhaus Latta s/s 2016 – Look 26

New York based design duo Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta are challenging traditional notions of design by privileging materiality over aesthetics. Address resident fashion critic Jacob Rosengren attempts to unpack the significance of this changing approach to thinking about garments …read more


Hacking the (Fashion) System: Yolanda Domínguez

As a visual artist, Yolanda Domínguez’ creative practice routinely subverts the numbing effects of fashion’s charms as a means to agitate social change. With a penchant for performance work, Yolanda often uses public space to create scenarios that enable viewers (and consumers) to question the fashion world’s complicity with oppressive gender norms, exploitation, and conspicuous consumption …read more


September book recommendations

Chris von Wangenheim’s glamorous photographs taken in the 70’s, capturing a sense of style and excess of the era, have been brought together in to a book for the first time. The timing couldn’t be more perfect as fashion is currently heavily referencing the decade manifesting in reference points that can be traced back to Yves Saint Laurent, Halston and the infamous Studio 54. Titled Gloss, this is just one of books on the Address recommendation list this month …read more


September exhibition calendar

It is definitely a moment for footwear exhibitions: two new displays are opening this month – one in Antwerp, one in Palm Springs – joining another three that are already running in London. In New York, a selection of dazzling outfits and pop photography illustrate the sartorial self-expression of Susanne Bartsch as part of an exhibition about this colourful performer’s portfolio of work. These are just few of the fashion exhibits opening this September …read more


In conversation with fashion scholar Jennifer Craik

Fashion scholars play a key role in unpacking and shaping the way in which we understand fashion. As well as finding out about the people behind the books, thoughts and theories, in this new series, Address asks academics about their views on fashion educations, research and the industry as a whole. For this first interview, Address contributor Emily McGuire went to meet fashion scholar Jennifer Craik …read more


August book recommendations

Three fantastic photographic books, covering celebrity, fashion and documentary past and present, are released this month. Originating in 1959, Philippe Halsman’s seminal Jump book is republished again and Cecil Beaton’s rich photographic legacy is captured in Beaton: Photographs. Viviane Sassen explores shadows in her trademark saturated style that combines fashion and art. …read more


August exhibition calendar

August is a quiet month for exhibition openings however, there are few that we would recommend for you to see. A showcase of Azzedine Alaïa’s dresses displayed amongst classical sculptures at Galleria Borghese in Rome is definitely worth a visit if you happen to be holidaying in Italy. Other highlights include an exhibition exploring the history of sneakers in Brooklyn, New York and French photographer Valérie Belin’s retrospective at Centre Pompidou in Paris …read more


Shoes: Pleasure and Pain

Three exhibitions about shoes are currently on display in London. The biggest one, Shoes: Pleasure and Pain at the Victoria and Albert museum, explores the transformative power of footwear from around the world presenting over 200 pairs of the most extreme shoes from the last 2000 years. Artist, shoe designer, curator and Address contributor Ellen Sampson visited the exhibition …read more


Everything but Clothes

The visual identity of Dutch fashion photography formed itself on the pages of progressive magazines such as Avenue, Dutch, BLVD. and Fantastic Man. Now, the relationship between these magazines and photographers such as Erwin Olaf, Inez van Lamsweerde, Viviane Sassen, and Blommers & Schumm is explored in an exhibition titled Everything but Clothes on display at Museum Arnhem. Address contributor Danielle Bruggeman visited the show …read more


An exhibition about Belgian fashion?

Surreal, avant-garde and explicit. These are three keywords that are usually associated with Belgian fashion, which is internationally recognised. A new exhibition open at BOZAR Center for Fine Arts in Brussels gives a unique historic overview of the DNA of Belgian fashion. The exhibition, reviewed by Address contributor Ezgi Toprak, also highlights the works of several influential players in various fashion and art disciplines …read more

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July book recommendations – summer special

In preparation for the holiday season, Address selected three casual reads that will keep you entrained and informed about fashion. Kate Betts looks back at her career as a fashion journalist in Paris during the 1980’s; Eileen Ford, the founder of Ford modelling agency, chronicles the the meteoric rise of her company to the top of the fashion and beauty business; and Diana von Furstenberg’s extraordinary life is brought into focus though the story of her career …read more


July exhibition calendar

July’s exhibition calendar sees a wave of firsts. Fashion as a Social Energy is Italy’s first exhibit to explore the relation between art and fashion; Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal is the first exhibition in the UK to showcase the French fashion designer’s life and work; and Squidcut is the very first exhibition to be hosted by ONCA gallery in Brighton since the new centre for arts and ecology opened there in May. …read more


June book recommendations

Sophie Rochas has written the first ever fashion monograph on her farther, the legendary fashion designer Marcel Rochas. Author Timothy Allen Long inspected the design approach of Charles James who was the subject of a major exhibition last year at the Metropolitan Institute of Art. Photographer Gregor Hohenberg’s book documenting folklore clothing sheds light to the beauty of German dress tradition. These are the Address book recommendations for this June …read more

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June exhibition calendar

The fashion exhibits on show during the month of June cover diverse variety of subjects. New for Now: The Origin of Fashion Magazines on display at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam explores the birth of the fashion magazine. The Belgians: An Unexpected Fashion Story exhibited in Brussels celebrates the countries contribution to fashion. Shoes: Pleasure and Pain showcased in London’s V & A maps the evolution of shoe design. …read more


Proenza Schouler a/w 2015 – Look 43

Red carpet dresses are anything but innovative but occasionally, someone takes a risk and helps this tried and tested dressing-up formula move forward. Address contributor Jacob Rosengren returns with his series of essays exploring individual dresses from the catwalk by considering the impact of look 43 from Proenza Schouler a/w 2015 collection …read more


May exhibition calendar

From swimwear to shoes, there is a focus on innovation in London’s fashion exhibitions during the month of May – from exploring technical developments in swimwear fabric in Riviera Style, to wearable shoe technologies in Life on Foot. In New York, China: Through the Looking Glass explores how Chinese aesthetics have inspired Western fashion and numerous fashion designers whilst in France the focus is on Cristobal Balenciaga and his intricate use of lace. …read more


May book recommendations

May book recommendations focus on fashion innovators and geopolitics of dress. The design approach and garments created by Japanese cult brand Sacai is documented in a new book Sacai: A to Z, whilst author Linda Watson highlights the lives and works of 75 legendary designers in Fashion Visionaries. Fashion and its link to geography is explored in books Kimono Now and Italian Glamour. …read more

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April exhibition calendar 

The month of April sees both the opening of the very first exhibition dedicated to the career of renowned fashion designer Karl Largerfeld’s and the moving of an already successful exhibit on the history of the silhouette from Paris to New York. In London, there is a focus on discussing the meaning of luxury, whilst in Austria an exhibition has been created to highlight the connection between fashion and mortality. …read more


Critical voice: Milou van Rossum

Milou van Rossum is one of the most prominent fashion voices in the Netherlands. She is currently the fashion editor at NRC Handelsblad, one of the Netherlands’ top newspapers. Address contributor Megan Wray Schertler spoke to Milou van Rossum in the calm before the storm of the autumn/winter 2015 fashion month. …read more


Book of the month: Nautical Chic

Despite the influence nautical fashion has had on the catwalk and consequently our wardrobes for centuries, Fashion Historian Amber Jane Butchart is the first to publish a book that tells the story of high fashion’s relationship with the high seas. Address contributor, Grace Wood talked to the Nautical Chic author about her ten-year research process and the inspirations behind the book. 

 …read more


Address roundtable: Zeitgeist beyond trends

Address invited four leading Berlin based creatives to discuss what time, fashion and trends mean to them during SEEK spring/summer 2015 trade show. The panel included Christiane Bördner, Editor in Chief of I Love You magazine; Mary Scherpe, the woman behind influential website, Stil in Berlin; Herbert Hofmann, the creative director of Berlin based concept store, Voo; and freelance journalist and social media expert Mirna Funk. …read more

Battle of Versailles

March book recommendations

The Washington Post fashion critic Robin Givhan looks back at a fashion show staged at Versailles in 1973 that marked a turning point in the history of fashion. Author and journalist Iain R. Webb brings attention to the art of show invites by exhibiting a collection of 300 invitations that span the past four decades. Fashion historian Amber Jane Butchart charts the rise of the nautical influence on fashion. These are our book recommendations for March. …read more


March exhibition calendar

Numerous exhibitions dedicated to the work of late fashion designer Alexander McQueen will open in London this month. New York is spoilt for choice as style icons Lauren Bacall and Bjork both have exhibits dedicated to their style and art whilst Richard Prince’s has his fashion series on display. Jeanne Lanvin exhibit in Paris and Dries van Noten exhibit in Antwerp both bring attention to these contrasting designers work. …read more


Thea Porter: 70‘s Bohemian Chic

The first-ever exhibition on the fashion and interior design of Thea Porter who pioneered bohemian chic in the 1960s and 1970s opened earlier this month in London’s Fashion and Textile Museum. Curated by Dennis Northdruft and Laura Mclaws-Helms, the retrospective covers Porter’s life and career from her early years in Jerusalem and Damascus, Beirut in the 1950s, Soho in the 1960s, and New York, Los Angeles and Paris in the 1970s. Address contributor Grace Wood visited the exhibition. …read more


February book recommendations

Address compiles a monthly list of new noteworthy fashion titles. Two books about Alexander McQueen have been published to coincide the V&A exhibition starting next month whilst history of Tartan, fabric often used by McQueen, also gets much needed attention. Iconic women and menswear illustration are also on the agenda this February. …read more


February exhibition calendar

Every month, Address lists the most important fashion exhibitions across the globe. This month, you should consider visiting fashion designer Bernhard Willhem’s fashion installation in Los Angeles, see 3000 buttons on display at Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and pop in to view fashion designer Gareth Pugh’s 10th anniversary exhibition in London. …read more


Book of the month: What We Wore

Nina Manandhar is a photographer, artist and modern day pop-ethnographer. Inspired by both the vibrancy of youth and the dynamism of city life, Nina’s work explores how style and culture act as tools for identification and belonging in global youth culture. As the author of What We Wore – A People’s History of British Style, Nina has created a visual timeline of British fashion since the 1950’s which gives readers an insight into youth tribes and subcultures whilst recording UK fashion trends from the past sixty years.

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Address roundtable: Design 2.0

Consumers are more sophisticated in their buying decisions and the landscape of fashion is rapidly changing with new demands around ethics, sustainability, function and communication of clothing: the state of design is in flux. In conjunction with SEEK spring/summer 2015 show, Address – journal for fashion criticism brought together a roundtable discussion to unravel the topic in more detail. …read more


Clothed space

The relationship between fashion and architecture is in constant dialogue as both disciplines echo each other’s design vocabulary. Nowhere is this more present that at the biannual catwalk shows, where clothing is made to fit the space, or more often, vice versa. Jacob Rosengren considers three case studies from recent spring summer 2015 shows where fashion entered into conversation with the space in which it was presented. …read more


A name of two halves – the fashion hybrid

Cross-breed clothing, mash-up messages and portmanteau phases: fashion is currently keen on combinations whether physical, metaphorical and linguistic. Scholar and Address contributor Rachel Matthews considers the meaning of frankenstein fashions that affect not just world of style, but food, business and even dogs …read more


Book of the month: Women in Clothes

Through original interviews, conversations, surveys, projects, diagrams and drawings from over six hundred contributors – including Miranda July, Cindy Sherman, Lena Dunham, Tavi Gevinson, Rachel Kushner and Sarah Nicole Prickett – Women in Clothes explores the wide range of motives that inform how women present themselves through clothes, and what style really means. Fashion writer and researcher Rosie Findlay reviewed the book. …read more

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Women Fashion Power: Not a multiple choice

Women Fashion Power – co-curated by fashion expert and commentator Colin McDowell and Donna Loveday, Head of Curatorial at the Design Museum – offers a look at how princesses, models, CEOs, Dames and designers have used fashion to define and enhance their position in the world. Address contributor Grace Wood visited the exhibition that recently opened at London’s Design Museum. …read more


Fashioning experiences: Adele Varcoe

Adele Varcoe is an Australian fashion practitioner whose work explores notions of dress and undress. Following Varcoe’s threeweek residency at ArtEZ Institute of the Arts in Arnhem, Netherlands, Address contributor Megan Wray Schertler sat down with Varcoe to discuss her experiences as a student of fashion and why she wants your wardrobe. …read more


The future of fashion is now

On view in Rotterdam at the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen from 11 October 2014 through 18 January 2015, The Future of Fashion is Now does more than just showcase the work of an incredible number of today’s fashion designers (fifty-six, to be exact). The exhibition, comprising commissions, on-site performances and an interactive website, is a large-scale conversation starter for new approaches and ways of thinking about fashion. …read more

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Book of the month: Worn Stories

‘Book of the month’ is a new monthly column, where Address contributors recommend and rate new titles that tickle our fancy. Whether fictional or factual, scholarly or not, we share our selection of books that cover the culture of fashion. In this first review, writer Pat Francis discusses her response to Worn Stories, a collection of clothing and memories brought together by Emily Spivack. …read more


Well-timed moments

A brilliant photograph needs the right moment, whether for capturing the light, the subject, or the mood at their best, or culturally for it to have impact. Pioneering fashion photographer Horst, certainly timed his moments right. The results of his 60-year long career, filled with catching arresting photographs, are currently on display at London’s Victoria and Albert museum until 4th January. …read more


The Next Movement

On view from September 13th through January 3rd, The Museum at F.I.T. in New York presents ‘Dance & Fashion’ as both a step back in history and a leap into the future of fashion, with overarching themes that include the interplay of creativity existing between fashion designers and dance companies and how garments perform in tandem with the body as an agent of change. Address contributor Kim Jenkins explored the exhibition with its chief curator Valerie Steele. …read more


Posing for resort

What does body language tell us about attitudes towards fashion, models’ lives and history of representation of men and women? Building on our series of unconventional catwalk reviews, this time the poses depicted in the Resort 2015 photoshoots is under scrutiny. …read more


Return of the Rudeboy

Somerset House is currently host to Return of the Rudeboy, an exhibition exploring what it takes to be a Rudeboy by photographing 60 men who fit the modern-bill, playing their chosen signature playlists and showcasing their customised shoes. From 13th June – 25th August 2014, this fashion orientated experience invites you to dip into a history before coming right up-to-date, in a well thought out presentation of sharp and terribly inviting looks! …read more

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© Cindy Sherman. Courtesy of the artist and Metro Pictures, New York

Cindy Sherman: Untitled Horrors

Identity, (gender) roles and physicality have been at the forefront of American artist Cindy Sherman’s work. Using mostly herself as a model, Sherman explores these ideas whilst stylistically referencing techniques and forms of advertising, cinema and classical painting. A new exhibition highlights her role as leading exponents of staged photography and reminds us of her close links with fashion. …read more

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Viktor and Rolf’s House of Subversion

Challenging traditional notions of form, fit and function, Victor and Rolf transport fashion into the realms of fantasy. In her latest piece for Address, Chloe Spiby Loh explores the the subversive approach of this Dutch fashion house. …read more


International fashion: Mexico and beyond

Fashion has for long been dominated by west-centric canons and its distribution, particularly when it comes to academic texts, relied on the English language. An exhibition, due to open later this week and an academic journal published last month, aim to widen the international perspective on fashion. …read more


Exhibition maker: Judith Clark

Renowned exhibition maker and Professor of Fashion and Museology at London College of Fashion, Judith Clark has paved the way for new approaches and perspectives in the field of fashion curation since establishing the Judith Clark Costume Gallery (1997, London). She has curated more than 40 fashion exhibitions at major museums and, through the MA Fashion Curation, at London College of Fashion, which she directs with Professor Amy de la Haye, she continues …read more

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A House for Kawakubo

It is often said that “all architects wear in black”, and whilst it is not a general rule taught on your first day at architecture school it is often something you silently adopt somewhere along the way. The colour black can be associated with mourning and the rituals that surround death, or sadness and depression, but in fact what I actually think it represents is silence. BLACK is also the name given to the more wearable collections of fashion label Comme des Garcons, and is often the dominant colour in each collection. …read more


Fashion polemicist: NOT VOGUE

NOT VOGUE represents the next wave of fashion criticism. Challenging traditions by maximizing the opportunities provided by the internet, NOT VOGUE composes ‘poems’ using visuals and sharp statements that critique fashion using its own material as medium. In an email interview, ‘Steven Oklyn’ the pseudonym behind the site, states his polemic on fashion. …read more


If I were a woman…

Critics are objective, fashion editors subjective in their views when it comes to the fashion shows. Critics explain and contextualise what is worth taking a moment to appreciate, and what doesn’t have any value or worse, when designers completely fail. Fashion editors on the other hand treat the shows as elaborate shopping events, pick things they like. It’s that black and white, right? …read more

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If I were a man…

Initially, this piece was easy. Just choose from the latest menswear a/w 2014 shows, roughly five collections I would wear and five collections I wouldn’t, if I were a man. Then give reasons why I liked or didn’t like them. It wasn’t so simple. …read more


A monument for McQueen

First in the new series of works titled ‘Fashion Spaces’ Chloe Spiby Loh seeks to explore ways in which the artistic disciplines of architecture and fashion collide. Through a series of illustrations and essays, ‘Fashion Spaces’ will be a platform for Chloe to discuss how the architecture of fashion can influence the way in which we recognise and understand brands. …read more


Gucci feminism: Elitism for Equality

A year ago, Chime for Change was born: a feminist organisation promoting health, education and justice for women and girls across the world, which was founded by Italian luxury fashion brand Gucci. Since then, it has helped raise awareness and money for a variety of causes, including taking part in the current world-wide focus on stopping a culture of rape in India. …read more


I now know why I dislike Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent

As a fashion critic, I’m always trying to reflect on why I respond to certain fashions with enthusiasm and joy whereas others have the opposite affect on me. One might argue that all of this comes down to personal taste, I believe signs of time, cultural influences and politics of life that underpin fashion should be at the forefront of our minds when trying to make sense of what we see on the runways or in the shops …read more


Once upon a time…fairytales and fashion criticism

This tale – as many within this journal – continues the quest to locate and identify constructive, critical and credible fashion criticism. Critical discussion of fashion in popular culture could be understood in two very different ways. One interpretation could be that of a discussion, which finds fault with fashion, the other as a discussion characterised by careful analysis of fashion. …read more

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New critical voice: Caroline Hartmann

Caroline Hartmann is the founder and editor behind TACK, an online fashion publication dedicated for promoting emerging design talent, fashion criticism and fashion industry debates. Address editor Johannes Reponen interviewed Caroline over email about her intentions with TACK and views on fashion criticism. …read more

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Big load

No offence but is this a white load?
White I was! And now I’m fucking pink!
You can’t blame her.
Three times!
Why’s she in here?
Listen this ain’t that kind of load …read more


Nutty Dress Codes

Katriina Haikala and Vilma Metteri make up the arts duo Nutty Tarts, or Tarahtaneet Ammat as they are called in their native Finnish, who approach fashion and design from a contemporary arts perspective. Address contributor Ashley Palmer met up with one of the Tarts, Metteri, and their collaborator, fellow artist and photographer, Heidi Lunabba to discuss their exhibit at Parsons in New York. …read more

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It’s somewhere in the middle (your waist!)

Depending on how much you like beer and pies, the waistline should be the narrowest part of your torso, officially positioned horizontally between the hips and ribs. Not many people know this because there are so many design lines calling themselves a waistline. This would be totally fine, except who knows how to wear any of them? …read more


Oh Prada, No!

First it was a few Instagram pictures I saw on Sunday afternoon that got me worried. Then the reviews were published. Predominantly sitting on the fence, descriptively un-illustrative in painting a picture of a collection unravelling. I sensed trouble. On Monday evening I got the courage to log onto Style.com to see the pictures, my suspicions loaded into reality in front of me: the latest Prada a/w 2014 menswear collection was less than lacklustre and nothing to lust for. …read more


Glamorous – nothing is, as everything is exposed

Nothing is glamorous these days. Dresses are not glamorous, women are not glamorous, men are not glamorous, movies are not glamorous, nothing is glamorous. In the age, where everything is exposed, discussed, documented, photographed, written or captured on film, the concealment that anything glamorous requires, is now a paradox. …read more

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Foot craftsman: Anthony Andrews

What’s important to you when buying new shoes? Is it fashion, style, cost, individuality, conformity or the need to stop pain? Anthony Andrews shares stories from inside his shoemaker’s shop on New Cavendish Street in London, where he tackles all the above: from life-changing low cost personalised insoles to high-end hand crafted masterpieces. This is an extract from an interview published in Address – journal for fashion criticism issue two. …read more

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A grave situation

My look! My look!
That car stole my look! …read more


What a blow!

How do you curate an exhibition about a person whose most important contribution to fashion is herself rather than anything quantifiable and tangible that could be captured with mere objects? This was the problem given to curators Alistair O’Neill and Shonagh Marshall in putting together the Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! exhibition, currently on display at Somerset House until 2nd March 2014. …read more


Successive Lines – December

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more


Fashion critic: Booth Moore

Booth Moore is a stellar journalist and fashion commentator affiliated with the Los Angeles Times. She is one of the few to use the title fashion critic and she carries it proudly. In the pink glow cast over by the striking façade of the Beverly Hills hotel, she reflected on the state of criticism, her role as a critic and how it has evolved over the years. This is an extract from an interview published in Address – journal for fashion criticism issue two. …read more


Address Issue Two – Out Now

Issue two was a long time coming. During the past two years, since we published issue one, a lot has happened, a lot has changed. Not only has Address increased in terms of the core team, but the launch of our online platform has meant that we have been able to expand our voice as well as the topics we can explore and highlight, respond to and comment on. The nature of fashion criticism has also progressed. With time comes evolution, and whilst on the surface this issue looks similar to the previous one …read more


Successive Lines – November

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more

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MA in Fashion, Goldsmiths (London)

One of the exciting new courses to address fashion from a critical perspective is simply titled MA Fashion based at Goldsmiths University in London. Whilst the title of the course seems rather generic, this 1-year Masters degree asks students specifically to interrogate fashion from the perspective of ethical, social and digital paradigms. Unlike other similar MA courses, importance is not just placed on practice, but also on theory, levelling intellectual and aesthetic/design requirements. The course only started in …read more

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Black Coat Neon Green

Nah I’ll be alright someone’ll pick me up in a minute
the art form is just to wait in the right place isn’t it
look mate neon green and neoprene!
Sun’ll be out in a minute
It’s getting colder isn’t it
the danger is with waiting here …read more


Louis Vuitton S/S 2014 – Look 1

Tick, tick, tick… the clock turns 10 and the time has come. The first model, covered from head to toe in dazzling body graffiti, dressed in nothing but a pair of showgirl knickers, elaborate headpiece and chains of jewelry, draped from one hand to another reminiscent of Erté’s illustrations. As she paces across the show set to a soundtrack that sways from funeral march to dark cinematic sounds, she passes by echoes from the past. …read more


Address Issue Two – Coming Soon!

After months of crafting, Address issue two has been sent to print and will finally be available to order in few weeks time. The content is focused on three themes: shoes, voice and care. The issue is filled factual and fictional, written and visual pieces from a variety different perspectives utilising a variety of different voices. You can expect to find interviews with …read more


Successive Lines – October

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more


MA Critical Writing In Art & Design, RCA (London)

Royal College of Art is one of the world’s leading educational institution with a number of degrees on practical aspects of art and design. Therefore, it is a perfect location for counterbalancing degree in Critical Writing in Art and Design that aims to develop literary and intellectual skills required to write about the subject. This two year, full-time Masters degree that has been running for …read more


Christopher Kane S/S 2014 – Look 22

I relish my position as a fashion observer in front of the computer screen, away from the PR talk, the air-kissing, the posing and the general fashioning around that takes place in and outside the shows. There are times I’d like to jump through my screen to grab hold of garments and physically linking with the materiality …read more


Successive Lines – September

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more


Fashion Criticism Education

The state of criticism fluctuates according to fashion – one season it’s in, the next season it’s out. In the circles where criticism remains a constant topic of discussion, the ‘death of criticism’ mantra remains a fashionable staple, just like the color black in fashion. Whilst for some industries this might be true, in our clothing obsessed world of pants, skirts and shoes, things are very different. In fashion, the critic ain’t dead …read more


Fashion: Bread And Circuses

The fashion industry is a machine that until recently was solely driven by the people who work from within. They’ve been channelling their thoughts on fashion, into one looooooooooong carefully orchestrated PR line. We were blinkered, easily led by whatever diamante-encrusted carrot was being dangled in front of us; probably by Vogue in the days I could bare to look at a copy …read more


Cool: Intuitive Attitude

Cool people, like fashionable people are rare. Cool is a state of being. You can’t fake it or it will appear contrived. It’s an attitude that can’t be bought. You can buy cool things or take part in cool activities, but they are nothing if you don’t ooze the cool juice from your very own core. Like you and your clothes, cool is three-dimensional. It is not enough to strike a pose in front of the mirror you need to have the cool with you at all times, visible from every angle, in motion, and even when you are asleep. …read more


Z Zenga S/S 2014 – Look 1

There’s a massive disconnection between what most menswear fashion designers think men want to wear and what men actually want to wear. In comparison to women, us men are really conservative when it comes to dressing up and designing clothing for us, is probably tricky. We go for the tried and tested options and we definitely don’t experiment with dressing up, rather opting for just dressing or even worse …read more


Successive Lines – August

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more


Project Runway, Unpicked To Pieces

What I’m about to say, I thought would stay between the four walls of the un-judging security of my home. It is as embarrassing as declaring a love for Roberto Cavalli’s aesthetics or appraising Primark for their design merits. I know my statement is bound to arouse intellectual snobbery amongst some but here is goes: I love …read more


Woman Dresses Baby

Private Eye’s killer observational headline “WOMAN HAS BABY”, responded to the royal birth of Prince George Alexander Louis, as matter of fact. No unnecessary glitz (or excessive coverage), a baby has been born and now its parents need to take care of it. Nationally, the numbers of births in the UK are rising, 22% since 2001 in England and Wales alone, as many more women, have babies. …read more


Stella Mccartney Resort 2014 – Look 35

Minimalism is a fashion word that’s aimlessly thrown around to refer to a white garment of some description or anything with a label ‘Jil Sander’ attached. The term is nebulous in meaning and thus problematic to capture. It requires precise discipline, excellent eye for aesthetics and a real sense of balance as an approache to design. Minimalism is incredibly easy to get so terribly wrong. …read more


Successive Lines – July

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more


Resort 2014 Review – Everything But The Clothing

There is something refreshingly exiting about the way in which the resort collections are being presented in between the major fashion show seasons. There is no grueling 5-week long, never-ending, nonstop, hour-by-hour, minute-by-minute show schedule from one city to another. There is no need to travel half way around the world as most of the resort collections are …read more

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Uk fashion graduates, are you ready?

If you’ve studied fashion at undergraduate level in the UK, most likely you applied through the Universities and Colleges Admissions Service (UCAS). I searched ‘Fashion’ on the UCAS site, 105 relevant schools came up. Some offer one fashion course like the Arts University Bournemouth, others, anything up to 48, as with the University of the Arts London, collective of schools. There are 326 courses for fashion in the UK alone …read more

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Wearable Art Class

Address’ current artist-in-residence Riitta Ikonen is at it again. This time, she has been working with members of the Hamilton Madison House City Hall Senior Center, during her six-month residency there, which culminates in exhibition titled Wearable Art Class – presenting colourful handmade costumes, photography, and video. The project began as a meeting between the costume maker and performer Riitta Ikonen and …read more


Givenchy A/W 2013 – Look 43

It was only few years ago that resort, pre-spring, pre-fall, mid-season or what ever you like to call them – collections had only a minor role to play in between more prominent spring summer and autumn winter mainline collections. But as the fashion system is constantly increasing its phase these mid-season collections are becoming more predominant with their own dedicated advertising campaigns, show schedules and …read more

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My First Shopping Book

Walking through Dalston in East London, I saw this book sitting in the window of Oxfam charity shop. Eagerly, I took it from the sales assistant as he climbed out of the window display. Scanning through, I asked “Is this some kind of joke?”, the same response I’ve had from other people I’ve shown it to since. Next to my new declaration “This book belongs to: Grace Eagle”, the welcome letter, from joint authors Judith Wilske and …read more


Successive Lines – June

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more

Front page2

What does dressing up mean to you?

When I was very small my favourite outfit for playing outside was an Native American style dress. A loose fitting 1970s reproduction for British children, made in brown cheque cotton with upholstery tassel fringing hanging from under the arms. The tassels were silky like nothing I had touched before, swooshing in sync as I waved. Best of all, putting the dress on gave me permission to canter around the garden, jumping over logs on my …read more


Dries Van Noten A / W 2013 – Look 26

Fashion shows are odd and very complex events that have a specific function in the fashion mechanism. For an outsider, watching a fashion show can be a confusing experience. Some designers are very focused on creating garments that can be bought straight off the runway, nice and straightforward. Other designers present fantastical garments and unwearable-looking creations, spectacles in …read more


Work In Progress Update 1*

Issue 2 of Address is starting to take shape so it feels fitting now to share our progress. Since publishing the first ‘Call for Contributions’ post, we have received many interesting submission suggestions and it has been wonderful to start working with new contributors along with familiar names from issue 1. The starting point for issue 2 was very open but as we’ve discussed ideas and approaches going forward, it became increasingly difficult to narrow down all the topics …read more


Successive Lines – May

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more


Reviewing Perspectives

I have a complex relationship with fashion. Having studied fashion design at university, spent the better part of my career working with garments and fashion in general and now occasionally teaching fashion design, I am fully aware of the ins and outs of fabrics, pattern cutting, construction and finishing. When I’m wandering around shops, I tend to levitate towards both mens and womenswear departments to inspect and examine the tactile merits of garments …read more

Jeans Front Image 28

Do you look good in jeans?

I would say, probably not. Not that you can’t look good in jeans, but look around, many of us (including me) are messing it up. After years without them, I braved my fear of the denim trouser, and went to the Levi Store in West London. I bought myself two pairs, one size 28 Slight Curve, Classic Rise, Slim in jet black and the other size 28 High Rise, Skinny in blue-black. Arriving home, the jeans and I looked at each other for some time, weeks in fact. Occasionally I would hold …read more


Balenciaga A/W 2013 – Look 30

Alexander Wang presented his much awaited début collection for the house of Balenciaga during the Paris a/w fashion weeks this March. Given that he only had four months to familiarise himself with the house codes and conventions after he was appointed in late November 2012, one cannot expect him to travel too far from the heavy past of the house. He expectedly returned to the origins of the house, offering his take on recognisable Balenciaga couture propositions and fabrications adding his personal …read more


Successive Lines – April

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more


Addess In Personae

We are delighted that Address issue 1 is currently featured in the Norwegian magazine Personae, issue 3+4.2012. What initially appears as a glossy, is in fact an intellectual take on fashion in its cultural context, at least we think so. Unfortunately we can’t speak Norwegian but if you can, you might want to take a look. Anneke Smelik’s article ‘The Performance of Authenticity’, first published in Address issue 1, has featured alongside some interesting photo shoots. …read more

Mr_ Blackwell

But who is a fashion critic?

When I’m not writing or editing a column for Address online or working on the next issue, my time is spent thinking about fashion criticism as part of my research degree at London College of Fashion. Criticism is very difficult to define and most of my research is drawn from discussions and definitions from other disciplines such as graphic design, product design, music, theatre and film, where the subject is more evolved. Against these, fashion is starving for, not just criticism, but also discussions …read more

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Manufacturing Journeys: Me, Gran & The Smedleys

With the intention of researching British clothing manufacture since the beginning of the Industrial Revolution (yes I know, that small topic!), I decided to go to Derbyshire in England, for a few days. Numerous conversations with my Gran and two booked train tickets later (one for me and one for Gran), I was fascinated, excited and already overwhelmed. We went straight to the birth place of the two first water powered cotton …read more


Thom Browne A/W 2013 – Look 21

American philosopher and one of the leading voices in defining art criticism, Noël Caroll divides the task of a critic, in his book On Criticism, into two parts. On the one hand critics describe, classify, contextualize, elucidate, interpret and analyse artworks and objects. All of this suggests that a critic should have an ability to capture the object of criticism and to position it against something bigger: frameworks, contexts, narratives or histories. In order to do this …read more