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Balenciaga menswear s/s 2017 Look 1

Demna Gvasalia of Vetemens fame debuted his menswear collections for Balanciaga this summer. Unfortunately, his take on the sculptural heritage of the house translated into a two-dimensional vision for the future. Jacob Rosengren gives his verdict of the collection by using look 1 as his case study …read more

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Alexander McQueen a/w 2016 – Look 41

Fashion system is in flux and many are announcing it as ‘broken’ but what does this mean for design? Address contributor Jacob Rosengren considers the aesthetics of fashion during a time of transition …read more

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Eckhaus Latta s/s 2016 – Look 26

New York based design duo Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta are challenging traditional notions of design by privileging materiality over aesthetics. Address resident fashion critic Jacob Rosengren attempts to unpack the significance of this changing approach to thinking about garments …read more

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Proenza Schouler a/w 2015 – Look 43

Red carpet dresses are anything but innovative but occasionally, someone takes a risk and helps this tried and tested dressing-up formula move forward. Address contributor Jacob Rosengren returns with his series of essays exploring individual dresses from the catwalk by considering the impact of look 43 from Proenza Schouler a/w 2015 collection …read more

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Fashion show spaces

The relationship between fashion and architecture is in constant dialogue as both disciplines echo each other’s design vocabulary. Nowhere is this more present that at the biannual catwalk shows, where clothing is made to fit the space, or more often, vice versa. Jacob Rosengren considers three case studies from recent spring summer 2015 shows where fashion entered into conversation with the space in which it was presented. …read more

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‘Horst: Photographer of Style’ exhibition

A brilliant photograph needs the right moment, whether for capturing the light, the subject, or the mood at their best, or culturally for it to have impact. Pioneering fashion photographer Horst, certainly timed his moments right. The results of his 60-year long career, filled with catching arresting photographs, are currently on display at London’s Victoria and Albert museum until 4th January. …read more

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Resort poses

What does body language tell us about attitudes towards fashion, models’ lives and history of representation of men and women? Building on our series of unconventional catwalk reviews, this time the poses depicted in the Resort 2015 photoshoots is under scrutiny. …read more

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Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent

As a fashion critic, I’m always trying to reflect on why I respond to certain fashions with enthusiasm and joy whereas others have the opposite affect on me. One might argue that all of this comes down to personal taste, I believe signs of time, cultural influences and politics of life that underpin fashion should be at the forefront of our minds when trying to make sense of what we see on the runways or in the shops …read more

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Prada a/w 2014 menswear collection

First it was a few Instagram pictures I saw on Sunday afternoon that got me worried. Then the reviews were published. Predominantly sitting on the fence, descriptively un-illustrative in painting a picture of a collection unravelling. I sensed trouble. On Monday evening I got the courage to log onto Style.com to see the pictures, my suspicions loaded into reality in front of me: the latest Prada a/w 2014 menswear collection was less than lacklustre and nothing to lust for. …read more

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the word ‘Glamorous’

Nothing is glamorous these days. Dresses are not glamorous, women are not glamorous, men are not glamorous, movies are not glamorous, nothing is glamorous. In the age, where everything is exposed, discussed, documented, photographed, written or captured on film, the concealment that anything glamorous requires, is now a paradox. …read more

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Louis Vuitton S/S 2014 – Look 1

Tick, tick, tick… the clock turns 10 and the time has come. The first model, covered from head to toe in dazzling body graffiti, dressed in nothing but a pair of showgirl knickers, elaborate headpiece and chains of jewelry, draped from one hand to another reminiscent of Erté’s illustrations. As she paces across the show set to a soundtrack that sways from funeral march to dark cinematic sounds, she passes by echoes from the past. …read more

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Christopher Kane S/S 2014 – Look 22

I relish my position as a fashion observer in front of the computer screen, away from the PR talk, the air-kissing, the posing and the general fashioning around that takes place in and outside the shows. There are times I’d like to jump through my screen to grab hold of garments and physically linking with the materiality …read more