June_PPoaD_icon

Dries Van Noten A / W 2013 – Look 26

Fashion shows are odd and very complex events that have a specific function in the fashion mechanism. For an outsider, watching a fashion show can be a confusing experience. Some designers are very focused on creating garments that can be bought straight off the runway, nice and straightforward. Other designers present fantastical garments and unwearable-looking creations, spectacles in …read more

may_ikonen_collinge

Successive Lines – May

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more

may_icon

Catwalk reviewing

I have a complex relationship with fashion. Having studied fashion design at university, spent the better part of my career working with garments and fashion in general and now occasionally teaching fashion design, I am fully aware of the ins and outs of fabrics, pattern cutting, construction and finishing. When I’m wandering around shops, I tend to levitate towards both mens and womenswear departments to inspect and examine the tactile merits of garments …read more

Jeans Front Image 28

Do you look good in jeans?

I would say, probably not. Not that you can’t look good in jeans, but look around, many of us (including me) are messing it up. After years without them, I braved my fear of the denim trouser, and went to the Levi Store in West London. I bought myself two pairs, one size 28 Slight Curve, Classic Rise, Slim in jet black and the other size 28 High Rise, Skinny in blue-black. Arriving home, the jeans and I looked at each other for some time, weeks in fact. Occasionally I would hold …read more

May_icon

Balenciaga A/W 2013 – Look 30

Alexander Wang presented his much awaited début collection for the house of Balenciaga during the Paris a/w fashion weeks this March. Given that he only had four months to familiarise himself with the house codes and conventions after he was appointed in late November 2012, one cannot expect him to travel too far from the heavy past of the house. He expectedly returned to the origins of the house, offering his take on recognisable Balenciaga couture propositions and fabrications adding his personal …read more

April_icon

Successive Lines – April

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more

Mr_ Blackwell

The state of fashion criticism

When I’m not writing or editing a column for Address online or working on the next issue, my time is spent thinking about fashion criticism as part of my research degree at London College of Fashion. Criticism is very difficult to define and most of my research is drawn from discussions and definitions from other disciplines such as graphic design, product design, music, theatre and film, where the subject is more evolved. Against these, fashion is starving for, not just criticism, but also discussions …read more

Smedley's main image copy

Manufacturing Journeys: Me, Gran & The Smedleys

With the intention of researching British clothing manufacture since the beginning of the Industrial Revolution (yes I know, that small topic!), I decided to go to Derbyshire in England, for a few days. Numerous conversations with my Gran and two booked train tickets later (one for me and one for Gran), I was fascinated, excited and already overwhelmed. We went straight to the birth place of the two first water powered cotton …read more

ThomBrown_April

Thom Browne A/W 2013 – Look 21

American philosopher and one of the leading voices in defining art criticism, Noël Caroll divides the task of a critic, in his book On Criticism, into two parts. On the one hand critics describe, classify, contextualize, elucidate, interpret and analyse artworks and objects. All of this suggests that a critic should have an ability to capture the object of criticism and to position it against something bigger: frameworks, contexts, narratives or histories. In order to do this …read more

ikonen_collinge_350_

Successive Lines – March

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more

Buttoned up

Book Appeal

For a while now, I have suffered from an acute boredom when it comes to fashion magazines. I used to buy every single magazine I could get my hands on, but now only a few will come home with me from the newsagents. As a diagnosis for this, I can only offer one explanation: I have become more of a reader rather than a viewer. Fashion magazines have always been more about imagery than writing, but it seems to me that this is even more so now …read more

Eyes As Big As Plates

Long time Address contributor and this year’s Artist in Residence Riitta Ikonen along with Karoline Hjorth will be working on a new chapter in their ongoing collaborative series Eyes as Big as Plates as part of Recess’s signature program, Session, from February 15th until April 26th. Session invites artists to use Recess’s public space as studio, exhibition venue, and grounds for experimentation. Over the course of their Session, Ikonen and Hjorth …read more