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Givenchy A/W 2013 – Look 43

It was only few years ago that resort, pre-spring, pre-fall, mid-season or what ever you like to call them – collections had only a minor role to play in between more prominent spring summer and autumn winter mainline collections. But as the fashion system is constantly increasing its phase these mid-season collections are becoming more predominant with their own dedicated advertising campaigns, show schedules and …read more

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My First Shopping Book

Walking through Dalston in East London, I saw this book sitting in the window of Oxfam charity shop. Eagerly, I took it from the sales assistant as he climbed out of the window display. Scanning through, I asked “Is this some kind of joke?”, the same response I’ve had from other people I’ve shown it to since. Next to my new declaration “This book belongs to: Grace Eagle”, the welcome letter, from joint authors Judith Wilske and …read more

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Successive Lines – June

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more

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What does dressing up mean to you?

When I was very small my favourite outfit for playing outside was an Native American style dress. A loose fitting 1970s reproduction for British children, made in brown cheque cotton with upholstery tassel fringing hanging from under the arms. The tassels were silky like nothing I had touched before, swooshing in sync as I waved. Best of all, putting the dress on gave me permission to canter around the garden, jumping over logs on my …read more

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Dries Van Noten A / W 2013 – Look 26

Fashion shows are odd and very complex events that have a specific function in the fashion mechanism. For an outsider, watching a fashion show can be a confusing experience. Some designers are very focused on creating garments that can be bought straight off the runway, nice and straightforward. Other designers present fantastical garments and unwearable-looking creations, spectacles in …read more

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Successive Lines – May

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more

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Catwalk reviewing

I have a complex relationship with fashion. Having studied fashion design at university, spent the better part of my career working with garments and fashion in general and now occasionally teaching fashion design, I am fully aware of the ins and outs of fabrics, pattern cutting, construction and finishing. When I’m wandering around shops, I tend to levitate towards both mens and womenswear departments to inspect and examine the tactile merits of garments …read more

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Do you look good in jeans?

I would say, probably not. Not that you can’t look good in jeans, but look around, many of us (including me) are messing it up. After years without them, I braved my fear of the denim trouser, and went to the Levi Store in West London. I bought myself two pairs, one size 28 Slight Curve, Classic Rise, Slim in jet black and the other size 28 High Rise, Skinny in blue-black. Arriving home, the jeans and I looked at each other for some time, weeks in fact. Occasionally I would hold …read more

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Balenciaga A/W 2013 – Look 30

Alexander Wang presented his much awaited début collection for the house of Balenciaga during the Paris a/w fashion weeks this March. Given that he only had four months to familiarise himself with the house codes and conventions after he was appointed in late November 2012, one cannot expect him to travel too far from the heavy past of the house. He expectedly returned to the origins of the house, offering his take on recognisable Balenciaga couture propositions and fabrications adding his personal …read more

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Successive Lines – April

This year long photography series is the size of a tall, slowly unraveling column, much like an exquisite corpse or a totem pole. Piled on top of each other, each monthly-published image continues the body from the visual lines of the other, taking a good long look at the seasonality of fashion and nature. …read more

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The state of fashion criticism

When I’m not writing or editing a column for Address online or working on the next issue, my time is spent thinking about fashion criticism as part of my research degree at London College of Fashion. Criticism is very difficult to define and most of my research is drawn from discussions and definitions from other disciplines such as graphic design, product design, music, theatre and film, where the subject is more evolved. Against these, fashion is starving for, not just criticism, but also discussions …read more

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Manufacturing Journeys: Me, Gran & The Smedleys

With the intention of researching British clothing manufacture since the beginning of the Industrial Revolution (yes I know, that small topic!), I decided to go to Derbyshire in England, for a few days. Numerous conversations with my Gran and two booked train tickets later (one for me and one for Gran), I was fascinated, excited and already overwhelmed. We went straight to the birth place of the two first water powered cotton …read more